Both the expensive shrink-wrapped “gourmet” cucumbers and ordinary garden varieties work well here if you first salt them to disgorge their considerable liquid. Tender-skinned garden cucumbers need not be peeled. Scoop out the seeds, then cut crosswise into slices about 3/8 inch thick: 3 large cucumbers or 2 English cucumbers, peeled and halved lengthwise Sprinkle with: Salt Let drain in a colander for at least 15 minutes. Rinse briefly with water, then press out the excess liquid. Melt in a large skillet: 1 1/2 tablespoons butter Add and cook over medium heat until softened, about 3 minutes: 1 shallot, finely diced (optional) Add the cucumbers and cook until warm, about 1 minute. Add: 1/2 cup heavy cream or crème fraîche Reduce the heat and cook until heated through and the cucumbers are tender but firm, about 5 minutes. Season with: Salt and ground white pepper to taste Garnish with: Snipped fresh chives or chopped fresh lemon thyme, dill, chervil, lovage, or tarragon